The details came
later...
1998 spring
I buy a mountain-bike and learn to ride again after a 20
year break since my Raleigh Griffter. Go on various
day-trips exploring the mountains west of Tokyo. Much
difficultly in finding anything "off-road" that doesn't involve
large groups of middle-aged Japanese hikers, sickening drops and
rope ladders.
1998
summer
Run into a group of mountain-bikers while, as usual,
carrying my bike up the mountain. Join their group for a few
weekend rides. Realise that their disciplined fitness regime and
early Sunday morning starts are strangely incompatible with my
late Saturday nights and binge-drinking. After a couple of
permanent scars, put the bike out on the balcony and forget
about it.
1999
Discover that I have a bicycle on my balcony. This
summer vacation I've already decided to visit Shikoku, the large
mountainous island of South Western Japan, and visit the first
few temples on the "88 Temple Pilgrimage Circuit", so I decide
to make use of the rusting piece of metal outside my door.
Buy a rack, tie on several 7-11 plastic carrier bags, and board
a ferry for Tokushima, start of the circuit. End up
completing the entire circuit. Up until now no ride has
lasted longer than 6 hours... this lasts 3 weeks and covers 1000
painful miles of hot, tortuously steep mountain roads and
abysmal signposting. Results in a half-man-half-crab-like
walk lasting a week ,and some very sore and tender parts of the
anatomy. I'm hooked.
2000
Bike has survived millennium-bug apart from the
continuing propensity for cycle computer to show low speeds and
short distances... Tackle the Japan Sea Coast by bike, in 35+
degree C temperatures with two layers of long-sleeved tops after
the severe sunburn from the first day. Survive home-prepared
meal of raw "fugu" - blowfish - with minimal hallucinogenic
after-effects.
2001
Day-trips into the mountains and longer weekend trips
further afield continue throughout the year, including a "Golden
Week" trip around Tohoku, the North East of Japan. A freak
cold front hits after a few days, really putting my cold-weather
gear to the test (Fail). After a day of start-stopping in
lay-bys to perform star-jumps to keep warm, reluctantly decide
to cut the trip short and return home defeated, but with
extremities intact.
2002
Have hardened up since the failure of last year.
After a much warmer Golden Week touring Kyushu hand-in-hand with
the Gods of Rain, head off to Tohoku again, this time staring
fate right in the eyes by starting the trip with Ozore-san,
which translates as the "Mountain of Fear". No giving up this
time, and despite The Night of Rats in a deserted wet campground
towards the end of the tour, the abundance of beautiful mountain
hot-springs and the friendliness of the local "Yakusa" add up to
some precious memories.
2003
Start thinking about a longer trip, at least six months,
and relishing the thought of handing in my notice. Something
about Central America and the image of laughing women and
children in their colourful peasant garb dancing the "tondera"
to the sound of latin guitars in the cobbled village square.
Or something like that. Money worries and other worries
back home mean the planned departure date comes and goes.
Probably for the best - could never roll my "R"s anyway.
Console myself with a couple weeks cycling Hokkaido , the main
northernmost island of Japan. Disappointed to find no
locals willing to dance the tondera for me.
early 2004
Shift work and weekend work mean I start dreaming again,
and also with no social life, mean I start saving money again.
After flirting between the relatively rational ideas of either
building a log cabin or opening a bar in Shinjuku, or building a
log-cabin and turning it into a bar, it suddenly hits me - why
not cycle between London and Tokyo ?
I buy a map and draw a line between the UK and Japan. And
put it away for a rainy day.
christmas
2004
The idea just doesn't stay down. Decide to spend a
couple weeks over Christmas cycling in New Zealand to think
about it. A very cold first night in the tent (it snows)
and a very noisy night a week later in a hostel (a bit of
Christmas "celebrating" going on in the bunk below).
It doesn't make
sense, but I make the decision: London to Tokyo by bicycle
it is. |